Chinese Peruvian Food: What Tusán Cooking Actually Means
Chifa is the restaurant. Chinese Peruvian food is bigger than that — it is the sillao on the table, the family recipe with no carta to speak of.
Cada semana, de la casa
Stories from the chifa tradition, recipes tested in our kitchen, and the Peruvian despensa explained. Every week.
The real ají de gallina recipe: shredded chicken in a bread-and-ají amarillo sauce that isn't spicy, isn't a saltado, and won't pick your family's nut for you.
Ají panca looks like it should hurt and barely does. Peru's great dried chili: what it tastes like, the dishes it holds up, and how to buy it in the US.
The carta at almost every chifa runs the same. Here are the chifa menu dishes top to bottom, sopa wantán to aeropuerto, and what to order first.
What is huacatay? The Andean herb behind ocopa and Peru's green cremas. It goes by black mint, but it's a marigold, which is why spearmint won't save you.
The real ají verde recipe runs on ají amarillo and huacatay, not jalapeño and cilantro. Here's the Lima pollería version, tested in our kitchen.
Calle Capón, the heart of Lima's Barrio Chino, gave Peru chifa, lomo saltado, and our name. This is the one-block street's history, told properly.
The best ají amarillo substitute is ají amarillo in another form: paste, frozen, or dried mirasol. Everything after that is a compromise, ranked honestly.
Red onion, ají limo, lime, and five minutes: the real Peruvian salsa criolla recipe, with the feather cut, the iced-water soak, and everything it belongs on.
Beef, red onion, tomato, ají, soy sauce, vinegar. Rice AND fries. Here's what lomo saltado actually is, and why it tastes like Peru.
Why are Peruvian Chinese restaurants everywhere? How a Cantonese migration and one street in Lima turned chifa into the most ordinary restaurant in Peru.
Bright, fruity, and warm rather than truly hot, ají amarillo is the orange chili behind half of Peru. What it is, how it tastes, and where to buy it.
A tested arroz chaufa recipe: Peruvian fried rice the chifa way, with day-old rice, sillao, kion, and the hottest flame you own. The weeknight dish of our casa.
Chifa is what happened when Cantonese cooks met Peruvian fire. Here is the story of the cuisine behind lomo saltado, and the street our casa is named for.